93Rue Julien Lacroix, Paris, France. Métro. Pyrénées. phone. +33 9 87 70 99 96. Ever since meeting at the École des Beaux-Arts in Paris, Marie-Anna Delgado and Olivia Brunet have been inseparable. After sharpening their respective blades for a few years, the chef (the former head chef at Le Dindon en Laisse) and the cabinetmaker (several
The dinning room at Restaurant Pierre Gagnaire / ©Cyril Carrere The Parisian dining scene is unlike any other in the world. In the best restaurants in Paris, exquisite French cooking is paired with opulent decor and exceptional service. Savor renowned French gastronomy in our pick of the city’s top gourmet establishments. Restaurant Guy Savoy Guy Savoy is located in the Hôtel de la Monnaie / ©Guy Savoy Restaurant Guy Savoy is a culinary shrine to the skills of its namesake. Renowned not only for its food but also for impeccable service, characterized by happiness and conviviality instead of inaccessible aloofness, this three-Michelin-starred restaurant consistently enthralls its diners and is a source of inspiration for many other chefs. Signature dishes include Savoy’s artichoke soup dressed with black truffle shavings and accompanied by brioche slathered with truffle butter and the chocolate orb dessert, over which warm mango coulis is poured at the last minute to create a delicious melting effect. Each day for lunch, Guy Savoy reserves one table for guests to indulge in a French gourmet experience. Restaurant Guy Savoy has achieved reader recognition in Elite Travelers Top 100 Restaurants in the World. Le Meurice Alain Ducasse Le Meurice Alain Ducasse celebrates Ducasse’s culinary philosophy under the leadership of chef des cuisines Amaury Bouhours / ©Le Meurice Alain Ducasse Alain Ducasse’s extravagant two-Michelin-starred restaurant serves world-class classic European cuisine in an elegant and Versailles-inspired white and silver setting by Philippe Starck. Wines and champagnes are kept in a specially created wine cellar opening onto the dining room, while a special chef’s table in the kitchen allows guests a closer view of what’s going on. Dishes at Le Meurice Alain Ducasse include such lavish offerings as blue lobster with fennel, sea bass with goldleaf risotto and scallops with white alba truffle foam. Latest in Luxury View all newsletters By the Elite Traveler team Sign up to our newsletter Pavillon Ledoyen Pavillon Ledoyen will re-open in September with new decor by the artist Kostia and Atelier Montex /©Sebastian Mittermeier One of the oldest restaurants in Paris, Pavillon Ledoyen first opened its doors 1792 and was the place to see and be seen during the Belle Époque. The dining room, — classified as a historical monument — is a sight to behold, retaining much of its exquisite 19th century detailing. Pavillon Ledoyen will re-open in September 2021 with new interior detailing from the artist Kostia and Atelier Montex, Chanel’s Parisian artisanl embroidery studio. The collaboration has seen the installation of a series of what Kostia describes as intricately crafted floral “veils” between each table. Interiors aside, the real pièce de résistance here is the stunning French haute cuisine. Earning the top mark of three Michelin stars, the restaurant serves modern dishes inspired by classical French fare from Chef Yannick Alléno. Pavillon Ledoyen has achieved reader recognition in Elite Travelers Top 100 Restaurants in the World. Related Le Cinq at Four Seasons George V Le Cinq boasts three Michelin stars / ©Le Cinq Reminiscent of an ornate château, Le Cinq is undoubtedly luxurious yet also welcoming. The elegant dining room bathed in gold, the oil paintings adorning the walls and the beautiful flower arrangements all set the scene for this gastronomic experience. Awarded three Michelin stars, it serves classic French food with a contemporary inflection, with menus changing seasonally to make the most of each ingredient chosen. Chef Christian Le Squer ’s delicious creations include traditional fare such as grilled lamb alongside more modern dishes such as lightly smoked eel with black bread and grape juice reduction. Le Cinq has achieved reader recognition in Elite Travelers Top 100 Restaurants in the World. Content from our partners Apicius Apicius opened in 2004 / ©Apicius This Michelin-starred restaurant was opened by Chef Jean Pierre Vigato in 2004 but now boasts Mathieu Pacaud also of Paris’s Michelin-starred Divellec at its helm. Apicius extends over a number of rooms in the magnificent Hotel Schneider, previously the residence of 19th century man of affairs, the Marquis de Talhouët. Guests can choose to dine in the Dining Room, the Klimt Room – adorned with superb reproductions of Klimt’s golden-toned artworks – or the Petit Salon, an intimate room for six to eight people. The cuisine is modern French; light, elegant, inventive, but with the unmistakeable hallmarks of traditional bourgeois dishes. Arpège Arpège achieved three Michelin star stautus in 1996 / ©Arpège On the chic Left Bank, Alain Passard’s Arpège is dedicated to creating cuisine filled with harmony; every ingredient of every dish is carefully considered to ensure it matches the rest, the result of which is a three-Michelin-starred rating. Passard is also devoted to quality; since 2000, the restaurant has been supplied by its own three potagers or kitchen gardens, which produce 40 tons of fresh, all natural ingredients annually. Experience this devotion in the sleek main dining room, or book the private dining room for up to 14 guests. Arpège has achieved reader recognition in Elite Traveler’s Top 100 Restaurants in the World. Epicure A meal at Eric Frechon’s Epicure will be a memorable one / ©Epicure Comprised of two dining rooms – Winter and Summer – used according to the rhythms of the season, this three-Michelin-starred destination in Le Bristol Paris attracts with its gorgeous surroundings and delectable culinary offerings. Based upon traditional French cuisine, yet always evolving and being improved, the dishes created by head chef Eric Frechon aim to bring back to the forefront of the gastronomical world simple but delicious combinations made with quality seasonal ingredients. Try the hearty roast saddle of venison with celeriac purée and beetroot in port accompanied by a wine chosen by Chief Sommelier Marco Pelletier. Epicure has achieved reader recognition in Elite Traveler’s Top 100 Restaurants in the World. Lasserre René Lasserre created opened the restaurant in 1942 / ©Lasserre Lasserre’s key concepts are discretion, service, and ultra-fine dining. A bastion of French haute cuisine, this Michelin-starred Old World-style restaurant aims to offer each guest a refined and charming experience, enhanced by an incredible attention to detail in all areas. Dine on classic dishes such as roast pigeon with seasonal vegetables, or spiced duck with roasted figs in red wine sauce, and don’t forget to look up at the frescoed roof by artist Touchagues, which retracts in good weather to reveal the Parisian sky. Le Jules Verne, Eiffel Tower Le Jules Verne restaurant enjoys a magical setting / ©Le Jules Verne Towering above the Parisian boulevards on the second level of the Eiffel Tower, Le Jules Verne is far from a tourist trap, contrary to what you might assume given the flocks of visitors below. With bold modern decor by Patrick Jouin and cuisine by Frédéric Anton of three-Michellin-starred Le Pré Catelan, it offers a delicate menu with precisly crafted dishes, in addition to sweeping views over western Paris through floor-to-ceiling bay windows. Pierre Gagnaire Acclaimed chef Pierre Gagnaire has restaurants all over the world / ©Cyril Carrere For those that have grown tired of heavy French classics and desire premium ingredients arranged in an exciting, innovative way, the choice is Pierre Gagnaire. At the center point of the Michelin-starred chef’s worldwide restaurant group, taste bizarre and beautiful combinations of flavors from all over the globe in this stylish location, where the artistry of the plates is complemented by the plush slate-grey tones of the interior decor. Particularly appealing is the tasting menu, which includes such dishes as porterhouse steak enrobed in a jus of beef tongue with tamarind, accompanied by butternut squash marmalade. Pierre Gagnaire has achieved reader recognition in Elite Traveler’s Top 100 Restaurants in the World. L’Ambroisie L’Ambroisie is set within a townhouse on Place des Vosges / ©L’Ambroisie L’Ambroisie combines elegant French haute cuisine and Parisian sophistication in the historic heart of the capital. Headed by chefs Bernard and Mathieu Pacaudhe, the cuisine is classical, sophisticated and seasonal, creating a unique tribute to every ingredient. One of the best restaurants in Paris, L’Ambroisie has achieved reader recognition in Elite Traveler’s Top 100 Restaurants in the World. Kei In 2020, Japanese-born Kei Kobayashi’s Kei restaurant became the first-ever Japanese-helmed eatery in France to earn three Michelin stars. The son of a kaiseki chef with French training at some of the country’s finest established such as three-Michelin-starred Auberge du Vieux Puits and Alain Ducasse et le Plaza Athénée, Kobayashi’s cuisine pairs these two gastronomic powerhouses. Delicate and precise, dishes are prepared using the finest of ingredients. Le Pré Catelan With a kitchen led by the Meilleur Ouvrier de France An award given to the best craftsman of France, three-Michelin-star Le Pré Catelan will not dissapoint. Creative and innovative plates are chauffered from the kitchen of famed chef Frédéric Anton with dishes often artfully centering around one superstar ingredient such as red mullet, pigeon or langoustine. Located in the heart of the Bois de Boulogne in a pavilion dating back to Napoleon III, the setting is also a delight to behold. [See also Ivan Artolli on Life Inside the Iconic Hôtel de Paris]
DigimonBT08 : New Awakening : Display (ANGLAIS) Dinner in Paris : Ext. Le Combat des Chefs Funnyfox 17 €: Dix Lucky Duck Games 20 €
In discussing the three-star restaurant L’Ambroisie, which ranks among the most expensive in the world, people often bring up a quote by chef Bernard Pacaud. “Someone’s first meal here is never their best,” he once said. “It takes at least two or three meals for us to learn the customer and for the customer to learn us.” This was true for food blogger Adam Goldberg, who wrote a scathing report of his first meal at L’Ambroisie. After returning more than twenty times, however, he declared “I am now certain that this is the finest French restaurant in the world.” Goldberg undoubtedly has a much more nuanced appreciation of L’Ambroisie than I was able to form during my single visit €795. A similar advantage goes to the French journalist who told me this week that he has known chef Yannick Alleno for a long time, that he “knows his cuisine by heart between Cheval Blanc and Ledoyen.” How could one lunch at the latter €517 give me enough information to draw comparisons? L’Ambroisie That insecurity plagued me throughout this project, in which I visited every Michelin three-star restaurant in Paris. I tried to combat it by remembering that our audience – the readers of Paris by Mouth and the visitors who join our food tours – are not themselves going to return multiple times to L’Ambroisie or Ledoyen. The overwhelming majority cannot afford to do so. Those who can better afford it have plenty of other options now to consider. They’d rather try Noma or Mugaritz or Manresa than return to something that didn’t delight the first time around. With some exceptions, the existing literature on haute cuisine – reviews published in major newspapers and on blogs – is written by people who don’t feel the sting of l’addition in the way that you or I might be bowled over by a bill. If a writer is not being charged for his meal because of his value as a promotor, or if his wealth affords him freedom from feeling this pain, then there is simply too much distance between his own perception of the meal and what our readers might experience. This is also true at the level of more modestly priced restaurants, but the stakes are different. Disappointment is magnified exponentially when a digit turning 50 into 500 is added to the total. Chef Yannick Alleno personally cutting the cheese for a special table at Ledoyen Similarly, if a writer has climbed the entire ladder of a chef’s cuisine, including the special dishes reserved for VIPs and regulars, he may have lost sight of the chef’s starting offer – the lunchtime tasting menu at the bottom rung, the only one that’s reachable for most. We can enjoy these accounts in the context of background reading and armchair traveling, but they don’t help our audience – people who are willing to spend money on food, but who still feel the hurt – decide which one or two experiences to invest in. This vaguely populist lens for writing about gastronomy may seem strange to some, but it’s an echo of an earlier sentiment written by Liebling a few years before he died of gout “If the first requisite for writing well about food is a good appetite, the second is to put in your apprenticeship as a feeder when you have enough money to pay the check, but not enough to produce indifference to the size of the total.” Here are the results of my apprenticeship – three months spent anonymously tasting every three-star and most of the two-star restaurants in Paris. Ultimately, only one of the two-stars was included as similar, competitive in the final analysis. For more information about why we did this, read Behind the Curtain Examining Haute Cuisine in Paris. Paris by Mouth’s Ranking of Paris Three-Stars This ranking is of course subjective, based on my experience with the lunchtime tasting menu when one was available and what matters most to me. While I enjoy a spectacular setting, it’s not more important than the food. I appreciate luxe ingredients but am more impressed by the elevation of modest materials. I am equally interested in traditional haute cuisine and its more modernist incarnations. I eat everything and drink a lot. I would always prefer to taste a series of thoughtfully paired glasses of wine than to stick to one recommended bottle invariably a white Burgundy. I don’t need for a chef to come out and shake my hand, but I’d like to know that he’s in the kitchen. I am unmoved and often annoyed by celebrity status and public relations. I am very easily seduced by joyful service. Below, I’ve noted the most salient features of each meal that contributed to this ranking. In the coming week, we’ll be posting more detail for each of these restaurants on its page in Our Guide to Paris Restaurants. Understanding that your own opinions will be very different, I hope you’ll share your own personal experiences with these restaurants in the comments. My favorite three-star in Paris is not actually a three-star. Not yet, anyway. Christian Le Squer was poached from Ledoyen in order to win the elusive third star for Le Cinq. There is a sense of urgency here. He is going for it. His least dazzling dish delighted me more than any bite from the bottom five restaurants. His best offerings dominated our list of The 20 Best Bites in Haute Cuisine. Cuisine High points included a bracing medley of marinated sea scallops, sea urchin and coral crumble – my favorite among more than 200 dishes tasted during this research. To finish, a daring dessert pictured above that brilliantly straddled the line between sweet and savory with flavors of fresh milk and fermenting yeast. The precision and balance Le Squer maintains while attempting such provocative compositions is remarkable. Service & Spectacle All aspects of the highly formal service, including suggested wine pairings, were flawless. Dishes arrive on silver trays, their domes removed simultaneously by black suited servers. Mignardises are rolled over on a towering cart topped by a chocolate squirrel. The setting inside the Four Seasons is luxurious if forgettable in the way that international hotel chains tend to be – an elegantly neutral backdrop for Le Squer’s extraordinary cuisine. Price of lunch menu €145 Choice between 2 options for each course on the lunch menu Number of individual tastes 18 Wine spot-on suggested pairings ranged from €21- 26 per glass Total cost of lunch for 2 including water, wine & coffee €466 Keywords modern & innovative cuisine, formal service, classically luxurious interior, a choice between courses on the lunch menu. The cooking of Pierre Gagnaire, who is widely considered to be the most modern and boundary-pushing of the three-star chefs, is often brilliant, occasionally erratic, never dull. The playfulness of his food and the adrenaline spike provoked by the spectacle of so many individual tastes is counter-balanced by somber and anxious formal service. Cuisine My favorite dish was a beautifully turned galette of Sarawak peppered sea scallops paired with an earthy Breton caillette and lapped with a consommé of sunchoke tapioca. I also loved the roasted poularde presented whole and then carved into two different preparations – the breast dabbed with tamarind infused cooking juices and served atop green lentils with cabbage and turnips, the skin and leg meat served with a bitter purée of radicchio and hazelnut oil. Dessert fans should note that fourteen different offerings make up the final act. Service & Spectacle The dining room is understated and contemporary, among the least beautiful of these three star settings. Servers are formal, joyless, and numerous. Scratch your nose and someone will come running, but don’t expect a smile. Price of lunch menu €160 No choice between options on the lunch menu Number of individual tastes 29 Wine suggested pairings ranged from €14-21 per glass Total cost of lunch for 2 including water, wine & coffee €486 Keywords modern & innovative cuisine, formal service, simple modern interior, a spectacular number of dishes but no choices on the lunch menu, celebrity chef Chef Yannick Alleno is more discretely and effectively doing what his rival Alain Ducasse has been splashily purporting to do celebrate vegetables, grains and fish. Aside from the delicious duck pictured above, the bulk of Alleno’s menu was rendered from humble ingredients onions, potato, squash, mackerel, beer. And unlike that other Alain Passard, his compositions feature more than one texture. Like Le Squer, this is a chef who is firing on all cylinders while all eyes are watching. Every rumor says he’ll retain all three Michelin stars, and I can’t think of why that wouldn’t be true. Cuisine Alleno is updating classic haute cuisine with a renewed focus on what he considers to be the great strength of French cuisine –the sauces. He’s using more modern techniques like cryo-concentration to magnify flavors and reduce the heavy reliance on butter and cream, but the compositions are still recognizably French. His starter of butternut squash, topped with crunchy seeds and accompanied by fermented bread mousse was a dish that I’ll never forget. Service & Spectacle The oldest and most historic 1791 of these restaurants, dining during the day feels a bit like being perched in an elegant tree house with foliage revealed through three walls of windows. Service in the dining room was warm and professional. However, the biggest service gaffe of this project happened when Ledoyen almost failed to honor our booking. On the day of our lunch, the reservationist called me around 11am to say that we would need to come later than the original booking because I had failed to call and confirm. I explained that I had not been asked to confirm as many other restaurants do require, but that this would not be a problem. When we arrived at the newly appointed time, she told us our table was not ready and directed us to sit in a dark corner at a table littered with coffee cups. Someone arrived soon after to offer us a glass of Champagne while we waited. We happily accepted and forgot all about the rocky start until the two flutes, amounting to €40, ended up on our bill. I had wrongly assumed these were offered as an apology for having given away our table to another journalist. It wasn’t a huge deal, and my overall rating of Ledoyen doesn’t reflect this blunder, but it’s a good illustration of the difference in treatment one can experience when visiting anonymously. Price of lunch menu €128 No choice between options on the lunch menu Number of individual tastes 10 Wine suggested pairings ranged from €12-30 per glass Total cost of lunch for 2 including water, wine & coffee €448 Keywords traditional French haute cuisine, no choice between options on the lunch menu, formal service, classically luxurious and historic interior, celebrity chef The most divisive of the three-star restaurants, Arpège is a place you’ll either love or hate. I’m in the former camp, through I acknowledge a worrying amount of repetition in Alain Passard’s tasting menu and the fact that his acolytes David Toutain, Bertrand Grébaut are working similar magic for a fraction of the price. Before booking Arpège, ask yourself this are you more likely to focus on the amount of pleasure that Passard can tease from an onion, or on the stratospheric markup of that ingredient? If you answered the latter, better to seek out caviar somewhere else. Cuisine There seems to be more improvisation happening in Passard’s kitchen than anywhere else. While certain vegetable dishes the sushi, raviolis, couscous have been a feature of the menu for years, plenty of other dishes the sole with cabbage, the baby boar with turnips seem to have been made up on the spot. I tend to enjoy a spontaneous riff, but others might prefer to have more composed and perfected dishes. Passard’s flavors are easy to love, but his forms – purée after mousse after velouté, can get a little lazy. Service & Spectacle The service is lovely – welcoming, complicit, and not overly formal. We loved the suggested wine pairings from our highly engaged sommelier. The room is… how else to say it… terribly ugly. It reminds me more of a conference center than a three star restaurant. If you’re looking for sparkle and show, this is not the place for you. Price of lunch menu €140 No choice between options on the lunch menu Number of individual tastes 22 Wine suggested pairings ranged from €14-28 per glass Total cost of lunch for 2 including water, wine & coffee €517 Keywords fish & vegetable based cuisine, more casual service, simple modern interior, a spectacular number of dishes but no choices on the lunch menu, celebrity chef Even if I can never afford to return, I’m so happy that L’Ambroisie exists. While many of his peers are shifting their focus to more modest ingredients, Bernard Pacaud is still laying on the caviar. While service elsewhere has become increasingly solicitous, L’Ambroisie remains a model of aristocratic snobbery. I’ll be sad the day their sumptous dining rooms close for good, and will treasure the memory of a meal I only partially enjoyed in the moment because I was mostly holding my breath. Cuisine In terms of classic haute cuisine, this is as close to perfect as you’re going to find. Expect luxury ingredients, fattening sauces, and to take a nap after lunch. Courses are not padded with an extensive array of snacks and sweets – you’ll be offerend some gougères, a spoonable amuse, and will finish with one compact tray of mignardises. Everything else is à la carte and thunderously expensive. Service & Spectacle The dining rooms here are devastatingly beautiful, evoking a private aristocratic residence in the place des Vosges. Service is similarly undemocratic. Our sommelier warmed toward the end of the meal but only through the dedicated efforts of my professionally charming lunch companion. Unlike Adam Goldberg, I don’t know that I need to return twenty times to this restaurant. Apart from the company, it wasn’t particularly fun. Price of lunch menu exclusively à la carte at both lunch and dinner. The average price ordering three courses per person was €320. Choice between five starters, ten main courses, and four desserts Number of individual tastes 10 Wine paltry pairings available by the glass a handful of options listed next to the soft drinks on a laminated menu. You want to order a bottle here. The sommelier advised a 2011 Pouilly Fuissé Sécret Mineral 2011 from Denis Jeandeau for €130. Total cost of lunch for 2 including water, wine & coffee €795 Keywords traditional French haute cuisine, a choice between à la carte options but no lunch menu, formal service, classically luxurious interior, outrageously expensive Of all the restaurants reviewed for this project, the place I’d most like to become a regular is Astrance. That’s largely because of the service, including the wine pairings, which were by far the best I experienced. The food, while delicious, was less ambitious than I expected, but the price at lunch makes this the best deal in town. Cuisine Pascal Barbot is often placed in the same modernist camp as Pierre Gagnaire, but I find his Asian-inflected cuisine to have more in common with William Ledeuil from Ze Kitchen Galerie. I’ve never had more perfectly cooked mussels or fish, but Barbot’s unchanging reliance on lemongrass, basil & mint, not to mention his immortal tarte of foie gras and mushroom, do not bolster his reputation as an innovator. I would still be thrilled to return. Service & Spectacle The small number of tables are well-cared for by a handful of jovial, welcoming and highly engaged servers led by Christophe Rohat. This is a modern dining room devoid of silver trays and rolling carts, so don’t book Astrance if you’re expecting a pedestal for your handbag. The most successful and enjoyable wine pairings of any three-star restaurant, by a large margin. Price of lunch menu €70 No choice between options on the lunch menu Number of individual tastes 15 Wine an additional €50 per person €120 in total for a pairing with each course, including a glass of Champagne plus water and coffee. Total cost of lunch for 2 including water, wine & coffee €240 Keywords modern & innovative cuisine, more casual service, simple modern interior, no choices on the lunch menu, exceptional wine pairings, relatively affordable Chef Éric Fréchon and his restaurant Epicure have a lot of fans, so I was expecting something great. The cooking, while enjoyable, didn’t offer anything new. The setting lacks soul. It occupies a very similar niche to Le Cinq but doesn’t measure up. Cuisine There was so much potential here, but Fréchon’s cuisine plays it a little too safe for my taste. A dish of raw sea scallops with oyster juice and lemon curry cream delivered no brine and very little spice, tasting mostly like shellfish and cream. Harmless, but lacking any of the power that Le Squer could have brought to the dish. Desserts were cloyingly sweet. Service & Spectacle Aside from the stunning floral arrangements, I found the dining room in this luxury hotel to be quite dated, almost provincial in its mix of heavy curtains, plaid chairs, and heavy crystal stemware. And while my inner child appreciated the rainbow crystal butterflies that decorated every table, it seemed a very twee choice for a gastronomic restaurant. Service is formal, with competent staff and an abundance of rolling carts. Price of lunch menu €135 Choice between 2 options for each course on the lunch menu Number of individual tastes 12 Wine suggested pairings ranged from €28-32 per glass Total cost of lunch for 2 including water, wine & coffee €542 Keywords traditional French haute cuisine, a choice between options on the lunch menu, formal service, classically luxurious interior Go for the palace setting – the chance to dine in that glittering stunner of a room. The feeling of stepping back in time will last through the apéritif until a kooky fondue pot of steamed vegetables arrives and you remember that you’re in a modern Ducasse restaurant. The jovial service will smooth your rising hackles and allow you to enjoy one of the best desserts in town even though the main course nearly put you to sleep. Cuisine Tuna with smoked eggplant, chicken with mushrooms… just wake me up when the sorbet cart arrives, ok? That and the dessert that followed – chocolate from Ducasse’s own manufacture in variety of different textures – let us finish on a high note. Service & Spectacle While the food may not be mind-blowing, the service and setting certainly are. There are plenty of people for whom food is not the priority. They will enjoy Le Meurice more than I did. Price of lunch menu €130 No choice between options on the lunch tasting menu Number of individual tastes 9 Wine The sommelier advised a 2006 1er Cru Chablis “La Forest” from Dauvissat for €110 Total cost of lunch for 2 including water, wine & coffee €408 Keywords traditional French haute cuisine, no choice between options on the lunch menu, formal service, spectacular and classically luxurious interior I think it’s wonderful that Guy Savoy is committed to offering more modestly priced lunch menus to attract a wider audience to haute cuisine. The introductory greeting, which was delivered without variation to every table in our small cubicle of foreigners, was perfectly calibrated to welcome first-time explorers, including the line “this meal is designed to take two hours and fifteen minutes.” I do suspect, however, that the quality gap between what’s delivered in his starting offer and his pricier menus may be wider than in any other restaurant. Cuisine A dish of pigeon with salsify was delicious. A technicolor starter of turnip petals stuffed with crab was garishly overdressed photo above, resulting in a plate that looked to one of our Instagram followers like the result of a sneeze. Two other dishes were completely forgettable. The array of spoonable foods on the dessert cart, while sure to delight many, made me feel more babied than pampered. Service & Spectacle It’s not worth talking about the setting since Savoy will soon be reopening in a new location in the historic Monnaie de Paris March 2015 or later. Service is professional and highly attuned to the needs of diners who have less experience with three-star dining. I would trust them to make anyone feel at home. Price of lunch menu €170 all included No choice between options on the lunch menu Total cost of lunch for 2 including water, wine & coffee €340 Wine five different wines, including Champagne to start, were included in our autumn menu plus water and coffee. Number of individual tastes 8 Keywords traditional French haute cuisine, no choice between options on the lunch menu, formal service, simple modern interior, wine pairings, relatively affordable A beautiful path through the Bois de Boulogne leads you to the restaurant of chef and Masterchef star Frédéric Anton. It would be rude to suggest that it’s a road to nowhere, so I will simply say that I don’t understand the attraction. Cuisine A starter of curried langoustines lacked any punch and the array of accompanying fried bites added steps but not sensation. A main dish of squid was divided between two deep bowls, one part fried and the other half sautéed with tomato and topped with fried onion. I was half expecting this to be followed by jalepeño poppers and mozz sticks. Desserts at the Pré Catelan are reputed to be outstanding. They were fine. It should all have been so much more than fine. Service & Spectacle As with Ledoyen, L’Ambroisie and Le Meurice, there’s a feeling of stepping back in time. Rolling cart service for Champagne and cheese, marble columns and chandeliers, formal and competent service. Price of lunch menu €110 Total cost of lunch for 2 including water, wine & coffee €309 Wine recommended pairings, available for an additional €40 per person, were excellent Number of individual tastes 9 Keywords traditional French haute cuisine, a choice between options on the lunch menu, formal service, classically luxurious interior The most egregious example of naked Emperor syndrome that I’ve ever encountered. The lobster dish pictured above, plus a starter of caviar and cream can’t mess that up and some delightfully bitter citrus desserts… these were the only compositions during two different meals that I genuinely wanted to finish. Service was scattered and surprisingly amateur. This would have been my least favorite experience even if price were not a factor. But considering that a meal here costs between 2-5 times the price of any other three-star excluding L’Ambroisie, the utter failure of ADPA to deliver a satisfying meal is cause for alarm, as is the failure of other writers to report it read more on Ducasse’s invitations and our own free meal here. Cuisine As I mentioned earlier about my personal preferences, I’m all for elevating modest ingredients and turning the focus away from foie gras and caviar. I’m a fan of Arpège and Ledoyen, two restaurants that are making similar and more successful efforts. However, the highly mediatized “naturalité” campaign by Ducasse has resulted in some of the most dreadfully boring food I put in my mouth this year. The seeded cracker and juice that greeted us felt like an after-school snack. An amuse of cornichon with black olive failed to do its job. A flaccid rectangle of sea bass swimming in a pool of bile colored sauce was mostly left uneaten. It was followed by a different white fish in a different green sauce. Neither had any salt, acid or textural contrast. Reviewing my photos and describing these dishes actually makes me furious. How could anyone recommend this? The sweets were good, I’ll give them that. For someone who appreciates and is increasingly bitter, the lemon, algae & tarragon dessert was a delight, as was the citrus with Campari granita. Service & Spectacle The setting, with its deconstructed chandelier and shiny silver round dining pods, is enchanting. One of the most spectacular dining rooms I’ve had the pleasure of eating in. The service was kind, but full of errors. To accompany this menu of vegetables and fish, we requested recommendations for different white wines by the glass. Our wine server not the head sommelier brought me a white Hermitage, and when I asked him to remind me of the cépage, and he told me it was a base of Grenache, Syrah and Mourvédre. I smiled and asked if he was sure those are southern Rhone red varieties; he was adamant. It was deflating that he seemed to not think highly enough of us to bother correcting himself. The pairings that followed were two different red Bordeaux – poor matches for the fish, contrary to what we had requested, and more expensive than anywhere else. This is just one example the amateur service at ADPA. There are more, but I think you get the point. Price of lunch menu €380 Total cost of lunch for 2 including water, wine & coffee €1084 Wine recommended pairings by the glass were poorly matched, repetitive, and priced between €30-38 Number of individual tastes 14 Keywords fish & vegetable based cuisine, a choice between options on the lunch menu, formal service, spectacular modern interior, outrageously expensive
Lunchis normally served from 12-2. Most restaurants don’t open until 7:00 to 7:30 pm for dinner and won’t get crowded until 8:00 or 8:30, the time when most Parisians dine. Paying the Bill: In France you will never be brought the check until you ask for it, as they don’t want customers to feel rushed.
The Parisian neighbourhood St Germain has something for everyone © Stuart Robertson / Alamy Stock PhotoWhen it comes to food, Saint-Germain-des-Prés has it all. The Parisian neighbourhood has something for everyone, from luxe, high-end boutique eateries to student-friendly tapas bars. Find out what this emblematic area has to offer with our guide to the best restaurants in ProcopeCafe, Restaurant, French, $$$Le Procope is the oldest restaurant in Paris © JOHN KELLERMAN / Alamy Stock PhotoThis 1686 café-restaurant is the oldest in Paris and both Napoleon Bonaparte and Benjamin Franklin were regulars here. It was also a meeting point for Charles Montesquieu, Voltaire and Jean-Jacques Rousseau. The place appears almost untouched, with various historical artefacts on display, including Napoleon’s bicorne hat. The menu is old-school French; the braised beef cheek is tender and flavourful, but the coq au vin is the real standout, and is one of the best you’ll find in Paris. Save room for the Café Liegeois Procope, a delightful melange of white-coffee ice cream, coffee jelly, coffee panna cotta and whipped Comptoir, Carrefour de l'OdéonBistro, Restaurant, French, EuropeanFans of Anthony Bourdain will be familiar with this standing-only tapas bar on Carrefour de l’Odéon. Yves Camdeborde’s tapas bar is incredibly popular, and for good reason decent prices and a good selection of wine make this bar appropriate for all tastes and budgets. Just next door is l’Avant Comptoir de la Mer, which has the same premise but features a decent selection of fresh seafood, and not far away is l’Avant Comptoir du Marche, where the entire menu is dedicated to the Japanese, $$$The first thing you’ll notice at Shu is the door. You’re not mistaken; you’ve found the right place, but you’ll have to work for your dinner. Once you’ve crouched down and bent your spine in ways you never thought you would for food, the restaurant opens up into a warm, contemporary Japanese restaurant all about kushiagué breaded and fried skewers. It’s a fun concept, especially as the ingredients making up your kushiague are not always that well described. Fret not, the staff always ask for your preferences to ensure you enjoy your food. The skewers are seasonal and constantly changing, and are served with three seasonings – fresh lemon juice, tonkatsu sauce or salt – though some come with their own special Japanese, FrenchChef and owner Yoshinori Morié has designed a menu that pays tribute to French culinary culture, with his own touches of his native Japan dotted throughout. It’s not cheap, but if you’re into fine dining, it’s certainly not the most expensive option in Paris, either. Yoshinori’s most well-known dish is his foie gras de canard confit with smoked eel, figs and citron noir dried limes popular in Middle Eastern cooking. The only problem is, the dishes are so well plated and presented that you won’t want to eat Italian, $$$Italian cravings are well satisfied by the team at Marcello, a St-Germain hotspot. Open for every meal of the day – lunch, brunch, afternoon tea, drinks and dinner – Marcello’s menu is simple and the food is home-made. The inner courtyard is sunken below street level, with a romantic fountain and climbing plants that take you away from the hustle and bustle of the city. You may think you’re in some far-away Italian countryside! Try their vongole spaghetti with clams or bianco tortellini with truffle cream, chives and lemon. The best thing about this place? The pasta, which is made fresh in-house every FrenchQuinsou is the kind of place where cooking teachers and professional chefs come for a quality meal. Each day, head chef Antoine Bonnet writes his menu based on whatever produce he finds at the market that morning, something that is both wonderful and frustrating. There’s no such thing as a bad meal at Quinsou, and when you hear of a particularly intriguing dish there were rumours of a pigeon en cocotte with smoked celeriac, radicchio and anchoïade, it’s unlikely you’ll get the chance to try it yourself. At least the Normandy oysters seem to be a menu staple, served with Japanese dashi and a splash of Cod HouseRestaurant, French, $$$It’s not always easy to find a restaurant that is open seven days a week in Paris, or a Japanese-style izakaya, but in The Cod House, we’ve found our Monday-night unicorn. One of several restaurants run by gastronomic powerhouse Black Code, here you’ll find a melange of Japanese and European flavours – sometimes all in one dish. Particularly well known, mostly on Instagram, is the Kimm’s cocktail Pimm’s with red fruits and cucumber and an earl grey syrup. You really can’t go wrong with the menu, which includes both hot and cold dishes, but be sure to try the avocado with Japanese vinaigrette, the tarama à la truffe and the vegetarian bao with yuzu FrenchStepping into Epoca for the first time, you’re struck by the warm and casual Art Deco vibe. Though the focus is on good Italian food, it’s not the stereotypical Italian fare that you come to expect, but proper regional delights that are hard to find outside of the peninsula. The carciofi alla giudia Roman-style fried artichoke is probably the best-known item on the menu, an incredibly striking dish that is worth ordering just to see it; the pizza fritta in panzerotto fried pizza, Neapolitan-style is also a favourite. And they’re just the snacks! Epoca also serves a fresh and flavourful polpo mare e monti grilled octopus with pumpkin cream and a delicious spaghettoni cacio e pepe spaghettoni with sheep’s cheese and pepper.Ze Kitchen GalerieRestaurant, Asian, French, $$$“Each dish is an invitation to travel,” is the motto at Ze Kitchen Galerie. Here, the food is all fusion, combining French technique and tradition with pan-Asian flavours and ingredients – something that, until fairly recently, was a novel concept in Paris. The food is well considered and the flavours eclectic and unusual, but they work well together, and the dishes are always very pretty. Colour and texture are also highlighted, as are ingredients typical of the Far us feedback
thisplace is seriously popular with the in-the-know food crowd, so avoid disappointment and ring a few days in advance. dinner at le baratin, like everywhere in Paris, starts and revolves around wine. there is a list posted on the wall, but they never seem to have what's scrawled there, so trust your server. you will like what they recommend
Dinner In Paris - Le combat des chefs Sur la place parisienne, la concurrence entre les restaurants ne faiblit pas et l’animosité est montée d’un cran vol d’ingrédients, nuisances sonores, dégradation de terrasses... Sur cette place en perpétuelle ébullition, vous pourrez désormais compter sur votre food truck pour étendre votre influence et surprendre vos adversaires. Désormais, tous les coups sont permis pour devenir le meilleur restaurateur de Paris ! Le combat des chefs est la première extension pour Dinner in Paris. Nécessite la boîte de base. Référence DINNERINPARISCOMBAT En stock 2 Produits Fiche technique Age à partir de 10 ans Langue Français Extension pour Dinner in Paris Durée 45 à 60min Nombre de joueurs 2 à 4 joueurs
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dinner in paris le combat des chefs